Chalk Paint Review (What I learned from putting it through the test)

Today I give you an honest chalk paint review based on my experiences painting with Annie Sloan chalk paint. The pros and cons of painting your furniture with chalk paint and how to make it work.

I have painted several pieces of furniture with chalk paint now, and I love the final effect and result on both of them. But I have decided I will never use it again.

Painting Furniture with Chalk Paint (Why I decided to try it out)

The other day I shared my latest furniture makeover, my chalk paint desk. I am really happy about how it turned out, and I am sure that the final look was thanks to the chalk paint I used.

Antique desk with vintage typewriter.

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I had decided I wanted to go for the old, chippy look, and preferably for a really quick and easy makeover (makes sense, duh). So I invested in Annie Sloan Chalk Paint. It is not as readily available over here in the Netherlands, so I had to search for a supplier and travel quite a bit to get my personal stash of AS Chalk Paint.

I didn’t have prior experience using chalk paint but all the blog reviews had made me curious and confident it would be so easy to use. Apparently, I wouldn’t need to do any prep work at all. That was a huge selling factor because I have a big hutch in my living room that I want to paint this year.

I thought AS chalk paint might be perfect for that hutch. So I was very happy to find that there was a Dutch supplier I could visit. I brought two drawers with me (of my desk and of the hutch) to get the expert’s advice, and she helped me and send me on my way with lots of useful tips and an offer for more online advice.

Related Reading: Milk Paint Review

I had already started and primed my maid’s wardrobe when the idea to give the chalk paint a trial run popped in my head, so I painted that one first.

white wardrobe painted with chalk paint

I am very happy about how both projects turned out, but as I said I am not all that happy about the process that it took me to get to that point.

Chalk Paint Review (what I liked and what I didn’t like)

The pros of working with Chalk Paint

  • The chalk paint gives a wonderful matte finish,
  • It doesn’t smell,
  • It allows you to paint fast and follow up with several layers within hours,
  • The clean-up is a dream.

I also found chalk paint very difficult to paint with…….

The cons of working with Chalk Paint

  • It is hard to paint with chalk paint without visible brush strokes.
  • It can cause bleed through.
  • It is expensive.
  • It doesn’t always adhere to the furniture as it is supposed to.
  • You need at least one finishing layer to seal the paint.

Working with Chalk Paint on Furniture

I had no trouble on the bare wood on the top of my desk. But on the smooth, lacquered sides it went on irregular and stripy.

This had happened on the maid’s wardrobe too. I had already primed that one when I decided to give the chalk paint a trial run. The primer was a bit spotty and I hadn’t given the wardrobe an even finish with it.

Normally that is no problem at all, the first coat of finishing paint will take all that away. But not in the case of following it up with the chalk paint. Chalk paint is more transparent so I kept seeing the differences between the whiter and the less white bits underneath. Took me three layers to have an acceptable cover.

Officially you don’t have to prime when you use AS chalk paint so with my desk I decided to faithfully follow the instructions I got from the supplier and not prime the piece first.

It was no better…..

close up of chalk paint project

It seemed as if the first layer had big trouble adhering to the lacquered and veneered piece, so I was left with visible brush strokes and an uneven finish. But most of all I couldn’t get rid of the marks the brush left when I put it on the piece or when I changed directions with the brush.

The image above is a really big close-up (and therefore a bit exaggerated) of what happened when I moved the brush in the opposite direction. The only way I could get rid of it was running the brush from one end with no hesitations to the other end. On the desk that was doable on a full length hutch that would be nearly impossible.

Problems That Can Happen With Chalk Paint

As it turned out the visible brush strokes weren’t even my biggest problem. After the first coat was on, something else happened that I couldn’t seem to solve.

close up table leg painted with chalk paint

My biggest problem when painting my desk was that the old white dissolved the old varnish and as a result, I had a big yellow mess on my hands.

This close-up of the leg shows the yellow stain coming through (it was hard to photograph, it was much worse on some other bits).

At this point, I had painted one layer of grey and following the directions I had received, I followed that up immediately with the white color (the pamphlet said one could/should do it after 30 minutes if you were going for the distressed look).

The grey went on fine albeit a bit stripy, and the white went on like a dream (it adhered much better to the grey), but within 15 min this happened. The white dissolved the old varnish and sort of disappeared leaving these yellow spots behind. I recognized what happened because I had seen it before in a closet I painted with cheap paint. Back then I had to do 6 layers to more or less get rid of the yellow.

When Not to Use Chalk Paint (as Directed)

By now I have learned that this is bleed-through and that you need a special primer to stop it. I wish I had known that at the time would have saved me a lot of frustration and time. So much for “no need to prime your furniture with chalk paint”. If you run into this problem you should read my post on: How to Paint Mahogany Without Bleed Through. What works for mahogany works for any kind of wood.

Anyway, no one had warned me about bleed-through being a risk and I had already invested two layers of chalk paint into the makeover of this desk. In the end, I decided to let it dry like this overnight and then gave it another white coat. This one too somewhat disappeared and left me with a yellow stained desk.

I didn’t want to put on many more layers in an effort to get rid of it completely. After all, Annie Sloan Chalk Paint is quite expensive. So instead I made peace with it. I covered some of it up with a dry brush of grey, distressed the yellow bits the heaviest, and for the rest pretended that it was part of the faux aging of the piece.

corner of white and grey desk painted with chalk paint

Distressing Furniture After Painting with Chalk Paint

While distressing, it became clear that the paint had not adhered very well to the legs or the sides. Because even the slightest distressing brought out the raw wood. I could never only remove the white to expose the grey underneath, it would scrape right off. Only on the top that used to be bare wood, the paint had adhered so thoroughly that I was able to sand off the top white layer and let the grey bottom layer shine through.

You can see in the image above how all of the paint was gone on the leg, I did not forcefully remove it. I distressed it very carefully with a really fine 400 grid sandpaper. For the final result I painted over the too heavily distressed bits with a dry brush of grey to make them a bit softer.

How to Finish Furniture with Chalk Paint

And I wasn’t even finished after all that. Because the “no prep work when using chalk paint” lost its luster a bit when I realised I know had to finish my furniture with a layer of sealant to make it durable and user resistant.

I chose a clear wax to seal my desk. Using several layers on the top and legs as they will have to endure regular heavy use. I think putting on those layers of seal took as much time as it would have to prime the piece of furniture. And with the proper primer I wouldn’t have had the issue of the bleed through in the first place.

All in all I didn’t save time using chalk paint, the outcome was not what I expected, I encountered problems the paint couldn’t solve and I won’t be using chalk paint on my furniture in the future.

But I love how my desk looks. The before and after is amazing. The end result of my old desk makeover was a success.

Related Reading: How to Paint Suitcases

So to recap:

What I loved about working with chalk paint:

  • It takes a bit to get used to, but I love the matte finish. It suits old pieces like this very well because a shiny new finish would never look authentic.
  • I love that it is practically odorless. I painted my desk in the middle of my craft room and it did not stink up my whole room.
  • I love that it dries fast and you can start and finish a piece in a couple of hours.
  • I love the ease of clean-up. Just run your brushes under the tap and they are clean and ready to go again in no time (you can even forget your brushes and clean them later all dried in, perfect for a messy DIY-er like me).
  • It distresses wonderfully and looks very natural as if time itself has done it.
vintage desk painted with chalk paint

What I didn’t like about working with chalk paint:

  • I couldn’t get it to adhere evenly to my previously lacquered pieces. It went on rather spotty and stripy
  • It was particularly hard to not have visible brush strokes, especially where the brush either changed directions or was put on the piece.
  • Because of the less than perfect bonding with the furniture, the distressing was hard to control and it was impossible to distress only to the previous layer.
  • The white paint dissolved the old varnish and therefore not only did not go on well, but it also caused a lot of yellow staining.
  • The time you save on not having to sand at the start of the project is wasted when you have to finish the piece by waxing it.

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collage image chalk paint review
Songbird | Website | + posts

Marianne Songbird is the founder of Songbird, where she hopes to inspire everyone to create a home they love, one DIY project at a time. She shares anything from craft ideas to home decor inspiration and from DIY projects to decorating hacks. Originally from the Netherlands Marianne and her husband Lex are currently renovating a 250-year-old farmhouse in Germany.

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61 Comments

  1. Thanks so much for this honest review of AS paint. I can’t easily access it where I live, so I’ve never tried it. (I’d still love to give it a whirl someday…) However, I love to have the “heads up!” before I try something new. Thanks for giving that.

  2. I’m glad to hear of your experience. It gives a balanced report of how the paint works. thanks

  3. I too have had mixed results with the Annie Sloan paint and it has not been worth the effort for what it costs to get the effect I am after. It has held up halfway decent on an outdoor piece that I am going to show a comparison of later this week.
    Right now I am enjoying the Benjamin Moore Natura no VOC paint. No odors so working with it in my studio is a dream and it has great coverage. Thanks for your review.

  4. I would love to help you with your application of ASCP, but I dont think I am close enough!!

  5. I have never used the paint but I will keep your pro’s and con’s in mind should I ever. I love the pieces your did…I think you did the best distressing on the desk that I have ever seen! Seriously, it’s all in the right places and not overdone as I see a lot of times. Great job!

    XO,
    Jane

  6. I bought a pot of Paris Grey and found it showed so many brush strokes also. However I then made my own from 2/3 paint to 1/3 Plaster of Paris adding water to thin it and it went on wonderfully well, minor brush strokes but none with the second coat,, distressed beautifully and adhered to laminate. I was very happy with the results and saved a ton of money. Sorry Annie.

    1. What kind of paint and where did you get the plaster of paris?

  7. Well, not me, Marianne. First, I don’t paint much. Second, I hear it’s really expensive. So that rules it out for me. Third, I have heard of this paint till I want to throw up. Sorry, I’m just being honest to all you girls who swoon over it. So your thoughts on it don’t bother me at all!
    Brenda

  8. Hi Marianne,
    I’ve used the ASCP with great results on some things and like you, had terrible results when stains kept coming through. I think it really depends on what you are painting. I just used a mixture of un-sanded grout and black paint with primer that I painted right onto a very shiny china cabinet and aside from some lumps because I didn’t mix it with water first, I had fantastic results with the home made. I just bought some more ASCP but honestly, I feel like I can make my own for a lot less and my results are the same.
    Susan
    Homeroad

  9. Sharon @ Elizabeth & Co. says:

    I use the AS chalk paint occasionally, but it’s not perfect. And the price is hard to justify. I make my own and love the results. I’ve written several detailed tutorials. You might want to give it a try!

  10. Sian Kneller says:

    I think your desk looks wonderful! I went on a French Furniture painting course and got some great tips. This type of painting the painting itself is the super easy bit, it’s the major prep before. You have to sand and when you think you have finished sanding sand some more. The sanding takes a day, the painting takes 30 mins. 🙂 I never prime either – it needs to go straight onto the bare wood to get the best effect (water based paints only properly stick to keyed wood, oils based paints can key in themselves). I have never used Annie Sloane paint, but the Farrow and Ball estate emulsion is just as good according to our instructor and gives a lovely chalk finish too.

  11. I made my own version of chalk paint and it was a success, but I’ve never used the real thing so I didn’t have anything to compare it to. You can find the recipe on my blog in the post, A Little Redo with Homemade Chalk Paint.
    Your desk turned out lovely.

  12. i have never used the ascp either, so i have no thoughts on it except for the cost. before i spend that much on it, i will try the home recipe that is 1/3 plaster of paris mixed in a little water (smooth out the lumps) to 2/3 paint. i understand that this is a very good recipe. i thank you for your honesty in using ascp. we cannot get it here, locally, so i would have to request it from a dealer and pay the shipping on it. not crazy about doing that either.

    i am going to try the plaster of paris with paint and will let you know how that works for me….

    thanks again, marianne….an honest review is most helpful….the desk is so lovely…..i love the lines of it and you did a great job!

  13. Ok this was nice to hear for a change…I have read so many blogs praising ASCP and have used it twice myself on a vintage dresser and night stand. I can honestly say that I did not like the end result. I felt each piece lacked depth and an overall eye-appealing “richness.” I believe this paint is so loved because of the promotion-“no need to strip or sand.” Who doesn’t want less labor! However, I swear by latex and no primer….let the natural wood shine through, add a wash of stain and finish with a wax….gorgeous luminous results! ASCP fell flat for me!

  14. Thanks so much for the honest review. I’ve also heard so much about ASCP that I was beginning to wonder if I should try it, especially because of ‘no need to strip or sand’ promotion! I’ll stick with sanding, latex, and sometimes a primer. Thanks again for the heads-up!

  15. Thanks for the honesty! I too tried ASCP with mixed results. I was even disappointed with a few pieces. Many friends have raved about their homemade chalk paint so I think it’s time for a
    try myself!

    Kathleen
    Charm Bracelet Diva {at Home}

  16. I also enjoyed reading your honest review.
    For many years I painted furniture and sold it from my home. When I read about ASCP, like many I was curious. My first purchase was online, since I now have a dealer nearby.
    I have had excellent results. My first attempt was painting my daughters bedroom furniture in Paris Gray. seeing the pics of your experience, I almost wonder if you got a bad can of paint. It seemed very thin.
    The next project was our guest room. I painted all the furniture in Duck Egg Blue and trim in Country white.
    I just today painted a suitcase in the new pink, Antionnette.
    I purchased a can of old white with plans on painting my bed, and some of the other pieces in duck egg and a vanity in the Antoinnette.
    I have rheumatoid arthritis, so sanding etc… is an action of the past:( ASCP does save time. Is it expensive? Yes.
    But, 1 can painted an entire bedroom set. When I looked at it that way, I could explain the cost a little better.
    One of the pieces I plan on painting has a glossy coating on it. It will be interesting to see, if the ASCP will work on this piece.
    thought my experience has been good, I STILL very much appreciate reading an honest review. AND, I am ABSOLUTELY saving the recipe for making your own. Wish I knew about it sooner 🙂

  17. I love to see another view of this amazing product. I have one small table, it was highly varnished before I painted it. Everything worked great…except, I went over the top to even out a spot, and ruined the finish. Probably should sand it down and do it again, one day.

    It is true that everyone is raving about the paint, and it it remarkable, but it’s also good to hear a honest review of another user. Did you try to contact AS? and let them know the difficulties you have been having? I vaguely remember seeing something about bleed through on a blog.

    The reason I love it so much is that I have such severe allergies, and really can’t use any of the paints on the market, but the odourless ASCP is OK for me to use. The wax is a little iffy, but if I use gloves, and lots of ventilation then I am OK. Yes it’s expensive, but it goes so much further then other paints.

    I have yet to try the homemade version, and am looking forward to seeing how that works.

    Jen @ Muddy Boot Dreams

  18. I appreciate the honest Pros and Cons.
    BTW, the yellowing you speak of…actually looks like really amazing shabby chic. Now, if you are looking for a smooth finish, that would be frustrating. I get that. But, just want to reinforce that your items are beautiful.
    ~ Dana

  19. Kelly Kellett says:

    You make me laugh, “I am ducking.” I read somewhere online that you can make your own chalkboard paint by adding I think 2 tablespoons chalk powder to a cup of paint. That most be the same as the gal adding the plaster of paris (thanks, ’cause I didn’t know what chalk ppowder would be).

    Could you prime the piece first and avoid the brush marks and staining?

  20. SO nice to hear a really balanced review — so many of them are gushing in praise, but it all sounded a little too good to be true to me. And when there were adhesion problems, people would just gloss over it, saying it “added to the distressed look.” I’ve been planning to try the homemade version, but I’m also fond of my primer, especially if I want a really hard-wearing surface or a non-distressed surface.

    Anyway — your desk is gorgeous and I love hearing about what you’re up to!

    ~Angela~

  21. I just spent a great deal of time on your lovely blog. I enjoyed my visit so much, and I am happily following along with linky followers. Hmmm… just wondering when you can bring the desk over, giggle. Hugs and Happy Wednesday. P.S. I hope you will stop by and say hello and enter the latest giveaway too.

    1. Marianne@Songbird says:

      Welcome to my blog! And no, you can’t have my desk, that is a keeper. But I get your envy 🙂 I often feel the same when I am visiting other peoples homes via their blog. Isn’t this blogging thing fun!

  22. I enjoyed your review…. The yellow that you see coming through the paint is the natural die (tannins) of the wood coming through. It doesn’t matter how many coats of ANY paint you put on the piece…they will bleed through. When that happens, STOP painting. Get yourself a can of CLEAR Shellac. Spray or brush on the shellac and then paint your piece. You won’t see the yellowing afther that. Shellac will also take out ‘smoke’ smell or ‘moth’ smell if you pick up a piece to restore. It’s your friend!!! Be sure to take the piece outside when you use the shellac as it is very smelly. Also…another tip, before you paint anything, particularly a piece with a shiny finish, use TSP to clean, then Simple Green. It will make the application of your paint, so much better.

  23. As an experienced decorative painter for over 25 years…I have to say I love ASCP! If your expecting it to look and act like any other paint your used to using…it may come up short. I for one LOVE and want the brush strokes to show, all the better for the wax to collect and show interest & age in. It is not a stain blocker though…so if tannins or marks are bleeding through as they will with any paint that does not have a stain block built in, either hit them with a stain blocking primer like Kilz, or put a layer of the clear wax over the stain to seal it and keep on painting. Like most paints, a second coat will usually cover irregularities and streaks. I even like Chalk Paint when it gets thick…the more texture in the painting.
    I am going to try one of the many recipes online for chalk paint, just to cut costs and add more to my color palette. I just had to throw my 2cents in the mix for those of you who haven’t tried it yet…it’s wonderful to work with…give it a try. Not to mention the ease of getting right in to a paint project without all the tiresome prep work that used to be involved?

    1. Marianne@Songbird says:

      Yeah I guess it is all in the expectations. Now that I know what to expect I am sure I’ll have more fun painting with it next time.

  24. thank you! I haven’t had the success with it either. Bleed through, cracking off when it dries, etc and always the response from AS is, “…I’ve never had anyone report these problems…” I don’t believe it. And the ‘fixes’ suggested don’t work. I think the hype has taken over and people gloss over the fact that it doesn’t always perform.

  25. Jennifer Hatfield says:

    I have made chaulk paint at home with grout and Flat paint. I just got Annie Sloans Paint and painted my kitchen table it is 100 time better than the home made chaulk paint. Her paint does cost a lot but my table is beautiful and worth every penny. I did not have the problems you had. The paint covered wonderful and no paint brush marks. You have to use a different type of paint brush than water based paints. I love this paint and will be going back to get more colors. Can’t wait to paint more pieces of furniture. Annie Sloan paint has a lot of steps you must take that is so different than other paints I have used but I fallowed all the steps and had no problems. I have painted 5 pieces with the home made Chualk paint and I wish I would have just spent the money and got the real deal. The pieces look good but not beautiful like my kitchen table. I hope this helps Have a great day.

  26. Rosemarie says:

    Make your own chalk paint at home with 2 parts flat latex paint, 1 part plaster of paris… the plaster is cheap…. if a little on the thick side just add some water… you want a pancake batter consistency… works great no priming needed.

  27. Meredith Jane says:

    I was SO glad to read this. I have a desk in my garage right now freshly painted with ASCP and the same thing happened to me with the varnish dissolving and showing thru!! I have done several other pieces with this paint and have not had this happen so it was a bit of a shock. Of course this has to happen on my first BIG piece. Grrr. I guess I wil just do what you have done and distress and somehow make it work.
    A couple of things I have found that have helped me although it may not be “correct” in the ASCP world 😛
    – if you are doing a large flat surface, use a palm sander to smooth the finish and it will be a LOVELY feel to it- SO smooth and soft.
    – personally, I use a small rolling brush as well as my bristle brush when I’m painting to smooth out flat surfaces. Once you sand afterwards, it will end up very smooth. I know you’re not supposed to use a roller but I find it helps with all those brush strokes.
    – first coat is scary…..and always looks awful…. second coat and you can start to breath again.
    – once you’ve painted at least 2 coats, sanded, waxed and buffed…. you will probably love the result no matter what. Getting there is a bit of a journey. 🙂
    Thank you again for sharing your experience. I feel SO much better.

  28. Karen Germany says:

    Is chalk paint like chalkboard paint? Can you write on it and erase it?

  29. I would like to know also if chalk paint is like chalkboard paint. And I am also wondering…why not just use flat paint. Is it because you have to sand first? It doesn’t take much to sand something. I recently painted a mirror frame with white flat ceiling paint and it turned out beautiful.

    1. Marianne@Songbird says:

      No Chalk paint is not Chalkboard paint. Two different things.
      Chalk paint goes on differently than regular paint, with a nice matte finish. And it distresses particularly well. It is great for old pieces, or pieces you want to give an old look. I have painted stuff with ceiling paint too. Works great. It all depends on the project, and the look you want I guess.

  30. I read your post about the chalk paint. I have been painting for years and just recently friended a chalk paint user and “diva”. Your quote about the paint being irregualr and stripy. My thought on this would be to try adding a little splash of “Flotrol”. This is for latex/washable paints and prevents the “stripy”. It may go on the furniture that way but the flotrol will allow the paint to “lay” down smooth as it dries. No stripes, streaks, etc. This of course is just an opinion and may not hurt to try on your next large piece of furniture. I enjoy your blog very much and admire your talents and sharing your travels.

    1. Marianne Songbird says:

      Good idea. I might try it one time.

  31. I am so happy to hear that other people have had mixed results with this paint. I’ve had an expensive and disappointing experience with ASCP. I started with a darker finished oak desk, probably with some laquer finish. The paint also went on very “strippy” and took about 4 to 5 coats to keep the color from coming through on the Old White. Some areas had crackling. I tried to achieve a smooth surface which was impossilble with this paint ( I didn’t want a distressed table). Finally my last straw was paint pulled off easily in places I used painters tape to block off areas I was doing in a different color. So disappointing. I understand there are times and situations that a products is not designed to work, but a company should be forthright with that information and not make claims about coverage and how it will stick to anything. I’ve spent almost two months on this project 🙁 I spent 100 dollars on a quart of paint, 2 smaller tubs of paint, and clear wax. I then had to go out and spend more money on primer, more latex paint, sandpaper and do it parts of the piece all over.

    1. So sorry to hear about your project. Yes I agree, the fans always start out by saying that everything is so easy and it will always work and then when you run into trouble they all say “ah well yes, you should have…. and that is why you should use….”.
      I guess in the end it is just like any other paint, it works well if you know how to use it. I love the final result on my little desk though, and it is holding up beautifully even with intensive use.

  32. Tina Newman says:

    I have always had no problems with AS paint. I love it. The trouble with second hand furniture is that you don’t know it’s history or what has been previously put or spilt on it- nail varnish, hair lacquer etc etc. Some coating are water resistant so applying a water based paint is not going to be a great start. At one stage using furniture dyes was all the rage.These play havoc when trying to cover them with these types of paints.

    I did on one occasion get bleed through on a piece. It is fortunately something that rarely happens and can be really annoying when it does but remember that it is Not the fault of the paint !! If you read what it says on the can It does tells you what to do if this happens and it is also on the Annie Sloan website….. Apply a coat of shellac (or knotting solution) to the affected area.Leave to dry (approx 2-3 minutes) and then touch up with paint. Job done. If you apply another coat of paint to an area that has bleed through it will just keep coming back.Don’t be pig headed and keep applying paint – you are just wasting your time and money doing so.

    As someone else has mentioned brush marks are part of the look. However if you want a more contemporary finish just add a few drops of water.Don’t go mad or you will land up with a wash and having to apply lots of coats to get the same coverage.Don’t press down on your brush as this can lead to an uneven finish – keep the pressure light and even ..A decent brush always helps too.

    If your piece of furniture is going to get a lot of wear and tear one coat of paint and wax is just not enough.With just one coat it is susceptible to chipping.Treat it as you would an antique piece of furniture or consider using at least 2 coats of both wax and paint.

    Buying paint mail order is a easy way to get it but visiting a stockist and actually discussing and asking for advice about the item you wish to paint saves a lot of time and disappointment. Our local stockist in the Deux Sevres in France was brilliant, when I first started, giving me loads of hints and tips.After all they want you t be happy with the product and keep coming back to them. Something that a faceless website just doesn’t do I am afraid to say.

    Happy Painting :o)

  33. Cassandra says:

    When working with the AS whites, it is best to put another color underneath, like Country Grey. AS whites have very little pigment and do not provide a lot of coverage. So, putting another color with more pigment underneath works beautifully. I did my kitchen cabinets this way and they look fabulous. You also have to remember that AS paint is not meant to provide a smooth finish. So, if it’s a smooth finish you want (no brush strokes) then this is not the paint to use. You can thin the paint by adding water and stirring well which will decrease the brush strokes, but will not totally get rid of them. You can also use the AS flat brush that makes the finish smoother. Or if you don’t want to spend the money on the AS brush a Purdy brush works just fine. This paint is meant to provide a rustic, flatter finish. However, you can take very fine steal wool and rub the paint to a gloss a day or two after it is has been waxed. This might provide more of the look you were looking for. As far as this paint being expensive, it’s really no less expensive than regular paint when you look at how far it goes. I painted my entire kitchen with 2 1/2 quarts of Old White and 3/4ths a can of Country Grey. That’s about $120 to $150 bucks. You can make your own for a lot less. I have had friends do so, and they say it has worked fine. You can find the recipes online and on Pinterest. Also, the store where I buy AS chalk paint offers classes in how to use the paint which was very helpful. I think getting some instruction ahead of time was well worth it.

  34. Jennifer Taylor says:

    First honest review I read. 🙂 Every makes it sound so easy, but for my first project, it was a nightmare! Finally finished with my first pieces (daughter’s furniture) and after all that, I’m still willing to paint more, now that I have learned a bit of what NOT to do. Trial and error. 🙂 I will say, I wasn’t going to buy the AS paint, for the expense…I opted to make my own (a mix with POP) but halfway through, I was talked out of it by a dealer of another challk paint line. It’s hard to know who to get good advice from, and who’s looking to make a sale. I was told POP would leak chemicals (?) Anyway, it freaked me out, since these were pieces in my daughter’s room, so around that time, I found someone selling her stock of AS paint on a buy/sell group on FB, and I snatched it up for cheap. I used the Old White to cover up my slew of trial and errors with my homemade batch, and I have to say, 1 can covered a 6ft dresser, a 5 drawer dresser, a mirror, and a twin bed (headboard, footboard, side rails) I have also learned along the way that I am anal about brush strokes, and having a spray bottle on that 2nd coat of paint really helps! It dries so fast, and the spray bottle spritz gives it just enough water to spread through the strokes better. Distressing….sigh. Some of it distressed nicely, but others just chipped off, right to the veneer. So, I’m still trying my hand at other options. Maybe I didn’t use enough wax? Who knows.

  35. I am so glad someone has finally said that: Annie Solan chalk paint is nothing you may expect and certainly has nothing in common with its description on the Annie Solan web. It doesn’t evenly cover the surfaces, it certainly needs a primer, one layer is not even close to enough (painting a bed I ended up with 4 layers!) and the piece you paint should be sanded as the paint doesn’t really stick properly especially to the glossy areas on the furniture. The mat finish is nice, but I don’t think it is worth the money you have to pay for the paint and the time you have to waste on trying to make it look as it was promised it would look without you taking much effort…

  36. Michelle Crown says:

    I have been using my homemade chalk paint for some, and recently used the ASCP on several pieces. It’s been my experience that with the ASCP I need three solid coats, every time. The paint has a beautiful finish and color selection but I find it doesn’t have good slip (requiring way more brush dips than I’m used to) and the coverage is spotty until the third coat. I’ll use her brand if I am having trouble duping a color, but for ease and coverage I’ve had better luck with my paint. The finish of both is beautiful, though hers is more matte. Her wax, however,is unparalleled. I was resistant to it for years but there’s no going back.

    1. Michelle,

      Please provide your recipe for your homemade chalk paint.

      Thanks much!

  37. Lisa Nash says:

    I was very happy to read this review as I too have had the same issues with AS chalk paint. I took a one-day workshop 2 years ago at my local AS’s distributor’s store ( which was a very well organized workshop) and I painted a small night table. My piece turned out very nice, but one of the other painters had her piece crackle when she applied AS chalk paint. She had even sanded the piece beforehand.

    I had to take a break due to tendinitis in my arm, but I have have now returned to painting. I am currently painting my daughter’s 6-drawer, French provincial dresser, night table and mirror. This furniture has a factory finish but I decided not to sand since I wanted to see if this paint adhered, like it says it does. I did sand a couple of parts of the top of the dresser where paint had come loose. Although it was smooth to the touch beforehand, after I painted the first coat of AS Pure White, you could see where the original paint had chipped off. I applied 3 coats on the top of this dresser but you can still see this. I also found I could not avoid brush strokes, so I decided to embrace this ” hand-painted” look. I am now putting on a wash of Paris Gray on top, and it does look lovely. This paint does get a bit thick when you use it, so I always have water on hand to thin it. As previously mentioned, a can of AS chalk paint goes a long way. After painting the dresser and night table with 2 coats ( plus a 3rd coat on the dresser top), I still have half a can left. I do like the look of this paint and will keep using it, but I may try out some of the other suggestions that have been posted on this blog. All very helpful comments!

  38. my feelings are unmixed! I just used AS paint for the first time. I’ve used lots of other sorts of paint before for bigger projects than this but thought this would be ideal for a couple of pieces of bedroom furniture. I found it very difficult to work with indeed. Like
    Painting with liquid plasticine. The first couple of strokes were fine but then when blending the next brushstrokes in with the first it was all draggy and clumping on the brush. tried thinning with water but honestly not much better. In the end I flung a first coat on as fast as possible. the second coat was even worse…instantly draggy. I finally did it by thinning the paint with water till it was like semi-skimmed milk thin. It’s on. I’ve done with it! I’ll stick with Farrow&Ball estate emulsion in future which is a joy to paint with and comes in equally subtle colours and indeed more colours.

  39. I too have had some issues with Annie Sloan chalk paint. Most pieces require 3 coats. I have much better results with Van Gogh Fossil paint. It goes on smoother, covers better and has a much smoother finish.

  40. I have used the Annie Sloan Chalk Paint on four items now. I think, personally, that some preparation always makes any kind of paint adhere and cover in a better fashion. The Annie Sloan paint is no different. I know that the paint can says no prep needed, but that isn’t quite correct with all woods and all finishes. The first three items that I painted were already painted with a previous type of paint. Some sanding and then two coats of Annie Sloan followed with one coat of clear soft wax and accented with some dark wax completely did the trick and those items turned out beautiful! 🙂

    The last project attempted was a high gloss lacquered mahogany table purchased back in the 1980’s. I totally stripped the piece and followed that with two coats of Zinsser’s BIN Shellac in white. That was followed with two coats of Annie Sloan Chalk Paint in Old White. After those two coats of Old White, two coats of clear soft wax were applied and then the piece was sanded at the “high points” in the carving to expose the bare wood beneath. Absolute near perfection! The next step is a bit of dark wax with some gilding paste lightly brushed over the carving. Perfection will be achieved at this point. 🙂

    I am a purist when re-doing furniture. I truly believe that all wood furniture deserves proper preparation before commencing with staining or painting. I wish that the Annie Sloan folks had not put the “no prep” information on their paint cans, because any piece can benefit from prep work. The problem with some woods is that the “tannins” will show through once a bit of time has passed. This is when you get a “golden” type stain coming through your lighter paint colors and it is going to happen if your piece is not properly prepped. I really wish the Annie Sloan folks would address this issue on the label of their cans.

  41. Hello,
    I was interested to read your review on AS chalk paint as I paint furniture and like most people I guess I am hoping I can find a quick, easy, time saving process. To date I have not found a quick process that gives a good quality hand finished look, which can be left either pristine or distressed. My conclusion is, that there is no easy and quick way of achieving a quality finish, to this end I work in very much a traditional way. Most craftsmen and crafts women will say that the preparation is the most important process, which I have found to be true. Preparation for me includes removing all handles, lock, hinges and any other hardware. Take note of the gaps between doors and drawers and their respective apertures, if it is a good quality piece of furniture these will be minimal, so if painting the edges of such it is often best to take a little of the wood off so the doors and drawers will still close after having a layer or two of paint. All repairs are done at this stage, I then key all surfaces by sanding, especially on the corners of the item. Once I’m happy I have the the piece of furniture prepared I use an adhesive primer which is also a stain blocker, there are many on the market and it’s a case of finding what best works for you, I prefer water based products as the clean up process is easier plus they have minimal to no odour. I use a good quality brush and unless I’m painting carved surfaces, I always do finishing stokes with the grain in the wood. Swirly paint strokes are hard to remove later. Once the priming has been done, wait for it to dry thoroughly, in some cases you may see the primer yellow as it absorbs colour from the base wood or the previous finish, this is often of no concern as when the primer dries fully this discolouration is sealed and does not bleed into the top coats.
    Prior to applying the top coats I very lightly sand the primed Finnish to take off any nibs and blend in raised areas.
    The finishing coat can be any type of Matt Emulsion as the readily takes to the primed surface, I usually apply 2 or 3 coats depending on coverage, mostly 3 coats are applied to give good coverage and depth of finish. The first two coats are applied waiting for each coat to dry thoroughly, again using finishing brush strokes in the direction of the wood grain, I then lightly sand the whole piece to remove any existing nibs and blend in any raised areas, ensuring I sand in the direction of the wood grain. The final coat of emulsion is then painted in the direction of the wood grain and allowed to dry thoroughly. I then sand the whole piece very lightly to take off any nibs etc, but also I sand the areas where it would naturally wear a little more, on edges and raised carved areas exposing the wood underneath, once I am happy with the finish I then use clear wax polish to seal the paint and add a light sheen, furthermore the wax seems to age the paint and blend the painted finish to the exposed wood in a naturally worn way. The final task is to replace the original door handles, hinges, locks and hardware.

    The primer I use is white, and when using coloured top coats they can be sanded just enough to expose the white primer giving a two tone effect, further more if you wanted to add different coloured base coats so when you stress the piece the contrast is more dramatic this can easily be done.

    I usually use Dulux, Egyptian Cotton which when finished with clear wax gives a nice mellow old English white finish.

    So, this is my way of achieving what I’d say is a good quality finish, any shortcuts in the preparation always reflect on the quality of the finished piece. I hope you find this helpful.

  42. Very interesting read, thank you….
    I’ve just bought some interesting old pieces to upcycle & just spent about £65 on AS paints, waxes etc – really looking forward to having a go at it!!! Used to do a lot of paint effects years ago & found it so relaxing, so am excited about getting some new projects to get started!!
    Will let you know how it all goes, thanks again for your hints 🙂

  43. Thank you for this honest report. I’m having exactly the same issues and thought it was just me! I’ve been on a basic AS techniques course and all was well, but I now think that’s because we were practising on new wood and only in small areas. I think this paint is great for distressing items but not good for solid colour. Very fine sand paper with a light touch is the way to rub back layers.

  44. after looking at utube videos of distressing furniture and deciding to use annie sloan chalk paint, i read so many replies here to make me feel otherwise. now i’m stressed!!!!! i bought a kitchen cabinet at a thrift store, brand new in beautiful condition, to make a bathroom vanity. some people would say it’s crazy to ruin such a nice piece. i paid $70 (down from $130 because of a few minor scratches, so i didn’t mind spending the money on AS paint. a builder friend said it’s custom made, worth about $350. it’s a much better piece than i expected to find and i’m scared i’m going to ruin it. i don’t have much painting experience, but am willing to take on the challenge. i want something easy and with good results. the videos say all this is possible with AS paint. i’m afraid to mix my own. i’ve seen good reviews for renaissance chalk paint. does anyone know about it? i will experiment on something else before painting the cabinet. the videos make it look easy. paint (no priming) two coats, thinning out the second, steel wool, dark was and then clear. done???

  45. Marcus Smith says:

    I appreciate your honest review here. I have not used chalk paint yet, though have really liked the type of finish they give. I will keep your ideas in mind on maybe the type of project I use it on.

  46. Hi: I had the EXACT same problems as you did with chalk paint!! I live in southern Ontario, Canada where a very fine brand is made locally and I was eager to try it, particularly when they say “no sanding” is required and that the paint “adheres to lacquered finishes”. Not exactly true, I found. I first tried it on a small table. I had lightly sanded in some spots but other areas, I didn’t as there was too much detailing, etc. The paint went on quite well on the sanded areas but I still did two coats. On the lacquered, shiny areas, the paint went on terribly streaky and the first coat was almost like water!! I applied three coats in the end. I also found that I couldn’t sand the top coat off to expose the underneath coat – because like you – my gentle sanding took all the paint off! I was looking at the original wood again! So that was disappointing. I would use it again because I like the colors of this locally-made line but will know what to expect next time.

    PS: make sure you REALLY stir the paint! My first jar, the chalk had settled to the bottom and formed a 1/4″ layer of “sludge”!! I tried stirring it – no luck! The chalk was in clumps. I had to actually scoop it up and squeeze the globs with my fingers to break up the thick clumps. What a mess! Once I broke up the clumps, I put them back in the jar and stirred well. I do find the chalk separates a bit and settles at the bottom so stir WELL!!

  47. Deborah Doyle says:

    I also fell for the hype. I am a review reader and researcher, also an experienced Diyer. Sure wish I’d found your post Marianne. I wanted to brighten up my guestroom and ASCP told me what I wanted to hear. I also have RA, so easy is better. I painted a very small side table that was old and dark finished with English Yellow. I bought the paint at a shop that gave me tips and instructions free, and does all kinds of finishes using AsSCP, but they sand after painting with 1000 grid sandpaper. She does get a fine furniture finish, and charges big bucks. She made it look like a breeze. I wasn’t looking for that fine a finish so I bought in. My table took a minimum of 3 coats. I attributed that to light over dark. It did not go on at all smooth. Not happy with it, but I just accepted the results, waxed it and moved on. I also bought a quart of Napoleanic Blue, at the same time for the chest and nightstand in the room. I will say, always try a product on a small project before laying out big bucks. I Continue to live and learn. I’ve put 2 coats on the nightstand as of now and it will take at least one more coat. This,was dark over a medium finish. Horribly striped with brush strokie, and I’ve used half the quart. I’ll have to get another quart in order to do the chest. So the investment for these three pieces will be about $135 or so! Annie Sloane video that says you can paint a piece in the morning and be using it that evening is not my experience at all. IF I ever use ASCP again it will be on a picture frame or something very small like that, but for that I can just use spray paint. Don’t believe the hype on this product. It’s not as easy as they make it out to be with mediocre results at best.

  48. Sarah skinner says:

    I have just started painting a four door buffet and hutch. I spent $90 ca on paint and am so disappointed. The sales rep said I would only need two coats to cover the buffet and hutch. I am now up to my fifth coat and it’s so patchy and shadowy. I have used up most of my paint and have only painted the hutch?

  49. Carol Clayton says:

    Hi Marianne, just started using ASCP and had the same problems regards the brush strokes and the yellowing. I always sand and prep first all paint needs a key. I had better results when I added small amount of water to the paint to thin it down, this really helps to get finer brush strokes. Let each application dry for over night to harden off and then sand again with fine grit sanding pads to flatten the paint and repeat the process. Use a very soft brush. When you are happy with the result you need wax to seal the paint and make it water resistant, and to protect the finish. I usually use oil based, eggshell finish paints for my projects. Your desk is lovely, hope my comments have been helpful.
    Happy painting.
    Best Wishes
    Carol

  50. Robyn Bourgoin says:

    I just refinished a hutch with Annie Sloan paint and wax against my wishes. I suggested the homemade paint and paste wax to seal it (what I normally use) and my clients insisted on a special mix of two colors with dark wax. They wanted me to follow the instructions to the letter. I will never ever ever agree to using something like that again. The paint had very little coverage. I prepped the surface with 80 grit all over but like you, I had massive bleeding through from the original finish that I hadn’t completely removed (I mean, they said I didn’t have to!!) so I had to remove all the paint and shellac the whole piece, and then put two more layers on. Apparently AS is supposed to last forever and one can will cover 4-5 hutches. Well I ran out. And because it wasn’t a pre-made color I had the impossible task of trying to recreate the “blended” color again. Maybe it was slightly off but I’m hoping they won’t know. Using the wax was difficult to say the least. Instructions/tutorials say, massage in wood like face cream and then wipe away. Let rest and then buff til it shines. Except it couldn’t wipe away (and I used very little!) and now I have surfaces that are soft, streaky, and fingerprinty. If you want to distress they say to wax first, distress, wax again. Well hey, the wax gummed up all their cheap sandpaper provided by Annie Sloan and rendered it useless so I ended up having to use a low grit just to get in under the wax. I am very dissapointed by the product. I used my go-to paste wax on the inside of the piece and it went on like butter and dried beautifully. Compared to Annie Sloan, my $8 can is a way better value and working product. Thank you for writing an honest review. I have half a mind to go to the place where my clients bought all that stuff and show them how little it worked. 🙂

  51. Kim clynshaw says:

    Hello, I have a large coffee table, previously over the years it has been polished, waxed etc. Is it possible to just paint this item without having to sand prior to doing so? If yes, which chalk paint would be the best to use that will adhere and not just go patchy or eventually flake off
    Thank you in advance

  52. Hi, to be honest with you i have used Annie Sloan paint a lot but even now i think i can say that its a lot of work…to much work when Annie Sloan says that its easy to paint with and you dont need to use a primer. I have used a primer and still have problems with the paint drying to fast and all the brush marks it leaves behind! I live in Portugal and it gets hot here…which means as fast as you are painting the paint is drying, i have to water the paint down and do more coats which of course takes more time! We have a big house and we needed a lot of furniture, i didnt want to buy new furniture because basically i dont like it, i prefer older furniture because its so well made but its nearly always dark wood or wood that has been stained and Annie Sloan on mahogany stained wood just wont work…the stain comes out so you have to use a primer and stain blocker..I use Zinsser Bin but they dont appear to have Zinsser Bin in Portugal which means i have to have it shipped in from the UK…all of this takes time! So although i have been happy with the results on some of the furniture on others not so much! I have a big bedroom furniture set that needs to be painted but i am thinking of going down the car spray paint route!

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